I always love underrated, unspoiled places. There are certain uncelebrated places I like to visit that I hesitate to recommend to others, for fear that they will be destroyed by their own success. Most are already aware of the cosmopolitan pleasures to be found in Quebec City and Montreal. But almost every other place I have visited in Quebec falls into the category of "underrated places." I grew up learning about France and the French language, but, despite my relative proximity, knew virtually nothing about Quebec. I have not had the pleasure of a long enough stay in Quebec to speak with any authority, but after three short visits and a lot of reading, viewing and listening, I find Quebec inviting and intriguing.
The artistic output of Quebec frequently contains regional elements. Another commonality is that Quebeckers often seem to be rebelling against something. In the 1960's it was the pervasive authority of the Catholic church, the economic domination of the anglophone Canadians, and the frigid winters. The frigid winters are still there, but the first two have been largely vanquished. This economic struggle can be seen in films like Mon Oncle Antoine, in novels like Roy's Bonheur d'occasion (The Tin Flute) and in poems like Lalonde's Speak White. Mon Oncle Antoine shows the hardships endured by French speakers in the agrarian society that preceeded the Quiet Revolution in the 60's. Lalonde equates the travails of the economically-disadvantaged francophone majority in Quebec with a civil rights struggle in this bilingual poem, which has been made into a video with an accompanying photo-montage to reinforce the connection.
Singers like Vignault and Gauthier celebrate the French language and their Quebecois identity. In Le Plus Beau Voyage, Gauthier describes that identity and declares Je suis Quebec mort ou vivant (I am Quebec dead or alive). He seems to imply that he would give his life to the cause if necessary. This attachment to the French language is reflected in the politics of the province during the 1970's and 80's when landmark language laws were being enacted in Canada.
The diminished role of the church is shown in a scene of Arcand's 2003 Barbarian Invasions. A church official tries (without success) to interest an art and antiques dealer in dozens of pieces of religious statuary that have been in storage for years, symbolizing the secularization of post-revolution Quebec.
The 1995 referendum for a sovereign state failed. It looks like De Gaulle's envisioned "Quebec libre" will not come to pass. In the ten intervening years, the province seems to have grown more bilingual and less divided. But younger artists have not forgotten the activism of their parents' generation and do not take their sacrifices for granted. After dispensing with the obstacles of oppressive church authority and economic marginalization by anglophones, Quebeckers still voice opposition to certain aspects of their world.
Groups like French B, Les Cowboys Fringuants, and Loco Locass sing about the globalization, war, and the politics of language. In the tongue-in-cheek Cowboys Fringuants song Quebecois de souche, the refrain is: Chu un colon anglicise (Je suis un colon anglicise; I have been colonized by the English) It is sung in a French idiom shot through with anglicisms and conveys a bizarrely schizophrenic bi-culturalism. On Loco Locass's CD Amour oral (referring to love of the French language), songs of opposition and resistance are sung in a rap style infused at times with rai or reggae influences. Their targets range from Canadian politicians, to liberals, to George Bush. They call the US a peuple imperieux (an imperious people) and continue on ne peut pas etre le Maitre du Monde sans mepriser le monde (one cannot be the Masters of the World without being contemptuous of the world). Their song W Roi (King W) is based on Jarry's Ubu Roi, a play satirizing an ineffectual and grotesque mythical Polish king. (Although I don't listen to rap, I must say this Loco Locass CD is a rippin' good listen with some interesting lyrics.) I don't want to give the impression that all arts and entertainment produced in Quebec are tinged with politics, because they also sing, write and make films about love and death and other universal themes. I just happen to find these works compelling due to my own interest in language. Cultures that have had to contest their status are always interesting to me.
Quebeckers enjoy great topography, high-quality artisanal products from their terroir, a rich cultural output, and a civilized lifestyle. The cuisine there is a lot like French cuisine, but uses local ingredients. Monastery cheeses rival their French counterparts. Poutine, the province's iconic comfort-food dish, (French fries smothered in cheese curds and brown gravy) sticks to your ribs on a cold winter evening.
The more I learn about French-speaking Canada, the more I admire the francophones there and the effort they have made in order to defend (without resorting bloodshed) their linguistic and cultural heritage. Another theme that appears is Quebec's relationship to France. In Godbout's 1967 novel Salut Galarneau!, the Quebecois protagonist humorously expresses feelings of inferiority vis-a-vis France. At one moment he is filled with pride that his stationary is of superior quality to French stationary (since Quebec surpasses France at least in one area--wood pulp products). I sometimes wonder if citizens of the mother country appreciate the extent of the commitment of their cousins in North America to remain true to their cultural roots, despite so many pressures and obstacles.
Canada is high on my list of "I totally want to go there" places. Nice post, sounds amazing.
Posted by: Anne | September 25, 2005 at 08:49 AM
I, too, often wonder if the French realize what the Quebeckers go through to remain true to their cultural roots...I'm not sure that they do.
I only recently discovered your fabulous blog; I hope you don't mind that I've linked it to mine?
Posted by: Francaise de Coeur | September 25, 2005 at 05:41 PM
Anne, if you make it there, you won't be disappointed. Francaise de Coeur, link away! As you can see, I already took the liberty of blogrolling you. Thanks for your kind words. I think that the French generally have positive feelings towards Quebec, but that some see them as distant relatives who have a funny accent, if they think of them at all. It's ironic because Quebeckers (and Canadians in general) tend to have a pretty European worldview, even though they are separated geographically.
Posted by: jean | September 25, 2005 at 08:20 PM
Your observations match mine; the French adore Quebec in general (and Montreal in particular), but are so busy being "French" themselves that they don't spend much time thinking of what's going on over there unless they are planning a Canadian vacation.
And they definitely don't seem to bother so much with the insistence on "all things French", as the Quebeckers often do. I so rarely see the French use the Canadian "courriel", for example - the population in general over here is content to use the Anglo version of so many things, even if the Academie despises it!
I love watching French films in which there is a French actor portraying a French-speaking Canadian (or Belgian!) - the telephone conversation between Villeret and Francis Huster in "Le Diner de Cons" cracks me up every time.
P.S. One thing that drives my friend Helen absolutely NUTS over here (she has Greek ancestry, but was born and raised in Toronto) is that the French often call her "American", even when they know she is from Canada! Sure, it's North America and all...but she is decidedly NOT happy to lumped with us by the French.
Posted by: Francaise de Coeur | September 25, 2005 at 11:30 PM
Quebec is definitely high on my list of places to visit. I do hope to make it there next summer!
Posted by: Elisabeth | September 27, 2005 at 08:54 AM
Have you been to Quebec City? Such a beautiful old walled city and lovely crepes and fondue restaurants too.
Posted by: Melissa | October 03, 2005 at 04:07 PM
F de C,
It IS very different north of the border. They are more attached to their European heritage(s). I can understand the reluctance to be slapped with a generic label.
Melissa,
I love Quebec City and would like to spend more time there some day.
Posted by: jean | October 03, 2005 at 07:31 PM
Jean - I love your blog. I hope you don't mind if I add you to my links too. It's of interest to me since I've lived in France and Switzerland and love culture and speak a bit of French. I tutor in French so I like to keep up on things any way possible. I'm now marrying a french canadian (known to many as Frogs) and want to explore more of Quebec. Since we both live here in Vancouver, it's quite hard to go visit. I've always been interested in learning more and hope maybe this next summer I will finally get a chance.
Posted by: expatraveler | November 03, 2005 at 12:52 PM
thank you for taking the time to learn about quebec culture and talking about it on your blog. Its really nice that you realize that those people have been and still are fighting to keep their culture and their language alive. I hope french people recognize that the quebecers are great defensers of their common language. thank you
lulu
Posted by: lulu | March 18, 2006 at 10:46 AM
I will be traveling to Quebec in the summer. Any suggestions on the best way to study the language?
Posted by: Kim | December 30, 2006 at 04:07 PM
Le francais quebecois comes from the french of l'Ancien Regime, prior to the French Revolution. The standardized international French is more closely related to the post-revolutionary Parisien. In Canada, Canadian French is the standardized version of French (used in politics, formal written documents, the news, etc), whereas quebecois vernacular is spoken, used in television shows, music, local literature and even some newspapers. There is also Acadian French, predominantly spoken in the Canadian Maritimes by a smaller population.
I have only been living in Montreal for the last 3 or so years, but I have noticed two very interesting and distinct things about the area since living here. Much of the Quebec-born population in Montreal (allophone, anglophone and francophone) seem entirely disenchanted with their French cousins. Their national identity is sovereign, from Canada and from France.
The other observation is that as a whole, Quebec has placed the advancement/perpetuation of the arts and culture almost higher than their economy. It can be marvelous and frustrating at the same time here when one is used to such a money-driven society as the rest of North America. The Quebec government protects and upholds many artisanal industries (such as beer, bread, cabinet, cheese or guitar making) with free training, and various other funds and campaigns.
Thank you for the lovely post about Quebec!
Posted by: Jessica | February 11, 2007 at 12:16 PM
Madame, I cannot thank you enough for the place you have granted us on your web-site. As a francophone, I consider myself québécois above all else, and certainly not canadian, due to their constant dirty tricks, and cheats, our rather very conflictic history, and many other things. Lets not forget that the federalist have cheated their ways in order to stay with Canada in 1995, this includes the recent option-canada scandal(a rather obscure organization who overfunded the 'no' camp for over 10 milliosn it seem's on of of now proven 500000$ to the illegal rally of the canadians 'love-in' manifeastation) and the ads-scandal as well. I myself, studies in politics and wishes to go in the political world to try and wins this french-state we've tried to build for so long now! Merci beaucoup madame!
A proud francophone that will never stops the fight for the french-language and the freedom that we deserves more then ever!
Vive la France,
vive la république,
vive le Québec,
VIVE LE QUÉBEC LIBRE!
Posted by: Guillaume | September 18, 2007 at 04:02 AM
I am glad to find this forum!
we beg pardon http://taxi-crimea.com
So interesting there was that I fell asleep...
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