France and Algeria are more than just neighbors on opposite sides of the Mediterranean. The colonial relationship, begun in the 19th century, ended with a bitter war of independence in the 1950's. Most of the colonialists, called "pieds noirs," resettled in France and Algeria set about reclaiming its own identity. Some of the buildings in Algiers are built in the Parisian style, but most other signs of the colonial occupier have been erased. Among France's Muslim population, most are of Algerian ancestry.
Recent news reports from France about the Islamic head scarf controversy in the public schools and the fearful reaction to accepting Turkey into the EU show that France is struggling with itself and its cultural diversity.
My thoughts on the relationship between France and Algeria are influenced by a mosaic of random glimpses and chance encounters. Staying at a one-star hotel in Nice as a student in the early eighties, I heard the pied-noir proprietress scolding an apparently North African cleaning woman: "Ça, c'est du travail arab! Il faut frotter, frotter, frotter les carreaux!" (That is "Arab work!" You must scrub, scrub, scrub the tiles!) This jarring attitude, I later learned, was widespread.
During the same trip a young man, who appeared to be North African, followed be down the street and offered me forty francs. I understood that despite my unprovocative (by Western standards) attire and my quick pace, he imagined that I was a prostitute. It was hard not to let this incident mar my image of Arab culture, as it was to be repeated with other women I knew.
Later that year I was fortunate to be exposed to "real" Algerian culture. Before Algerian civil unrest had begun, a French pied-noir friend, who grew up in France but whose family had remained friendly with a family in Algiers, organized a trip to Algeria for his wife, my roommate and me. My first impression of the capital was that there were men lounging about everywhere but few women were visible in the streets. It was odd that so many men seemed to lack any professional activity. This hinted at an economy that was not working well.
We were warmly welcomed by the family my friend knew. After greeting us, the women retreated to the kitchen while the men engaged us in conversation. The female members of the household emerged only to serve mint tea, a delightful and ubiquitous social ritual in that part of the world. It was an honor to be treated with such graciousness, but my female traveling companions and I felt guilty for enjoying a status apparently granted only to male Algerians.
Traveling to southern Algeria, we were hosted by another contact of my friend's, Chooch, who was working on an oil field project near Tamenrasset. This affable young man bubbled with enthusiasm about his culture, its richness, its hospitality, and its contributions to humanity. After all, Arab scholars kept knowledge recorded by the Classical Greeks and Romans from being lost during the Dark Ages in Europe, and contributed much to modern medicine. Chooch seemed to represent the future of the oil-rich country and its potential as a global player.
The next leg of the trip was a "randonnée" in the Hoggar desert, under the guidance of Rassi, one of the proud, nomadic Touareg people, who provided us with camels, food, and knowledge of water sources. The landscape in the Hoggar is the most ethereally beautiful I have ever seen. Its changing surface reveals stark rock spires, chimneys, and boulders that not even Salvador Dali could have imagined. This excursion revealed the ethnic diversity within Algeria--an overwhelmingly, but by no means exclusively Muslim country.
More recently, I worked in the US with an outstanding young colleague whose parents were born in Algeria, but who grew up in a northern industrial city in France. Samia has since returned to Europe and now works in Brussels. Samia was asked by an American student when France did not opt to join the coalition to invade Iraq "Aren't you ashamed to be French?" With aplomb, she quickly responded, "No, I'm proud to be French." Samia seemed equally proud to be a French citizen, a European, and a Muslim who is the daughter of Algerian immigrants. For Samia, these identities were woven into one seamless garment. She seems emblematic of her generation in her energy, optimism, and vision for the future.
France is a melting pot. As in the US, many French citizens trace their lineage to other nations. A significant number of immigrants coming from one part of the world, bringing different religious practices to a secularized France still guided by the humanistic spirit of the Enlightenment, is bound to produce tensions. The potential for radical Islamization is a worry to be addressed in France by Muslims and non-Muslims alike. In a free and open society, Muslim boys cannot be raised to believe that women who do not wear the veil are prostitutes deserving of their contempt. For this reason I understand the French government's insistence on a policy of laicité (secularism) in the schools, despite its discriminatory overtones.
We can hope that with a good deal of effort and a spirit of compromise on all sides, the prosperous futures envisioned by Chooch in North Africa and Samia in Europe will be realized.
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